Sunday, 3 August 2014

DIY IDEAS: Terrarium


DIY IDEAS: Terrarium


History of a Terrarium


Dr. Ward
Wardian Case
The modern terrarium was discovered by some what of an accident, in 1827 by Dr. Nathaniel Ward, a London physician with a passion for botany. Dr. Ward built a fern rockery in his garden, but the ferns kept dying, poisoned by the fumes from the city's factories. Ward at the time was also studying moths and caterpillars and, while experimenting with a cocoon in a covered jar for observation, he noticed that several plants had grown in the bit of soil at the bottom of the jar. Among these plants was a fern, and unlike the ferns in the garden, it looked healthy. Dr. Ward concluded from this that plants could flourish in London if they were protected from the city's polluted air. The trend quickly spread in the Victorian Era amongst the English. Instead of the terrarium, it was known as the Wardian Case. Wardian cases were used to transport plants on ships. Due to being closed, glass cases the plants could be sheltered from the harsh salt spray, they benefited from the daylight and the condensed moisture meaning they would survive the long sea journey.

Modern Terrarium


Modern terrariums are used less for practical needs and more for being aesthetically pleasing within an interior. Often popular within inner city living, it helps bring a bit of greenery and nature within a home. However they also come with a hefty price tag if bought already planted, therefore I'm going to show you all how to create your own for under £15.





DIY: Terrarium 

What You'll Need:  





Containers, Variety of Plants, Gravel, Charcoal and Soil

 1. Something to house your terrarium

A container will need to be glass and deep enough for your plants' roots. You can buy a new container or simply clean out one you already have. The container you use can be as simple as an old fish bowl or one specially made for growing plants.

  • Cloches - these will have high levels of humidity, and the cloche will need to be open occasionally to let the plants within breathe
  • Lantern cloches - though they have high levels of humidity as well, but are easier to ventilate.
  • Bell jars or apothecary jars are a pretty option for a taller terrarium.
  • Wardian cases - available both closed and not airtight.
  • Vases, tureens, or compotes - terrariums can still work their magic with an open top, though you will have to water the plants inside any container that isn't airtight.



2. Now to decide which plants to use

 Nearly any low maintenance plant can be used for a great terrarium. Classic plants for a terrarium include (but are not limited to) ferns, mosses, succulents, and cacti.

  • Pick a plant that will stay small. Try to choose plants that won't outgrow the terrarium container they are placed in.
  • Plants that prefer shade are best. Because glass can magnify light, plants kept inside a terrarium have to be tolerant of low levels of light - if you keep a sun lover in the dark, the plant will be stressed and can die.
  • Go with plants tolerant of high humidity. Humidity levels in terrariums rise quickly, so your best bet is to choose plants, like those from rain forests or woodlands, that will do fine is such an environment, unlike plants such as Mediterranean herbs.
  • If you're a beginner, pick something cheap and easy to grow. Be safe, not sorry - choose a plant that's inexpensive and tends to grow easily.
  • A variety of leaf sizes, shapes and colour adds interest within the terrarium as well.


Larger opening terrariums are better suited for cacti, whereas smaller/closed terrariums are better suited for ferns and mosses.

3. Gather your supplies

  • Potting soil. Choose light soil with lots of drainage, and preferably sphagnum/peat moss included.
  • Pebbles or gravel. These provide both drainage when placed at the bottom of the terrarium, and a neat appearance when placed at the top of the terrarium. Choose stones 1/4 of an inch or smaller for drainage, but you can choose whatever you'd like for topdressing.
  • Charcoal pieces. Unless the container the plant will be in has a drainage hole, charcoal pieces work to keep the soil fresh.
  • Sheet moss. Sheet moss is useful when lined at the bottom of the terrarium, as it provides a helpful "sponge" for mopping up excess water.
  • Optional. Decorations such as little trinkets, miniature people, drift wood, add whatever your heart desires to make it personal to you.



Time To Plant

1. Firstly check if your container needs cleaning. If so do this using soap and water, making sure to thoroughly rinse of the container. This is essential otherwise over time your terrarium will grow bacteria.


2. Now an inch layer of gravel needs to be added to the bottom of the container




3. A thin layer of charcoal now needs to be placed on top of the gravel to prevent mold within the terrarium. (I used BBQ charcoal that I had just crushed)


4. If wanted you can now add a layer of moss. (This is not essential)

5. Now to add your soil, depending on the size of your terrarium and the length of the plants' roots, you should be adding about two or three inches of soil. Making sure to pack it down to remove the air and creating a level surface.




6. Time for plants. Removing the plants from their pots and teasing the roots to remove the excess soil from the roots. Dig holes within the soil and place the plants within add/move soil around the plant and then patting down gently. Repeat until you fill or achieve the look you wanted.




6. Decoration. Now you can add any little trinkets etc. as well as any drift wood or stones to the surface of your terrarium. (I decided to keep mine plain, boring I know)

7. FINISHED! 




Caring For Your Terrarium


  • Water your plants. If you have an open terrarium, water the plants occasionally. If your terrarium is airtight this won't be necessary, the plants inside open terrariums will need to be watered once a week or two. Succulents and cacti only need to be watered once a month.
  • Keep your plants healthy. If you see weeds, mold, or sick plants, immediately remove the affected area. You should also be careful to remove wilting parts of the plant, such as old flowers.
  • Let in some fresh air. If your terrarium is airtight, occasionally air it out. Though this usually isn't necessary, if your plants are wilting or there's condensation on the sides of the terrarium, allowing air to come in is a good idea.









1 comment:

  1. Great idea. I will have to see what I can find at home.

    ReplyDelete